North American Freedom - July & August, 2016

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Along Mexican Route 1 on the Baja Pacific coast between Rosarito and Ensenada. (above)
Days 28-31: Dipping into Baja California and Sonora

Notes and Tips:

This was the first time I brought a car into Mexico and had no problem doing so. They look around carefully, but didn't ask too many questions. There are checkpoints here and there, though, especially into and out of major cities. The seaside in Ensenada and vicinity is beautiful and the cool Pacific air is so refreshing. East of the mountains the heat is intense, but a dip in the Sea of Cortez can cool you. All around Baja the fish and shrimp is cheap and plentiful.

 

Exciting: La Bufadora

Most low-key: roadside tacos

Free fun: Ensenada park

Don't: Forget the ice or drive at night

Most scenic: Playa Saldamando

Surprises: Sacred heart statue and other shrines, garbage fires

 

Day 28, 8/4: Ensenada

Playa Saldamando #11, Ensenada, BC.  Hi 78, pc. Took time in morning since borders are busy during rush hour. Left at 11. Took awhile to find a working ATM near the San Ysidro border so we'd have cash then changed $100 to MX$1880. Went across border surprised at how easy it was. We were chosen for a search, but agent simply opened our side door and satisfied we were legit, told us to bugger off. No passport check. Easily passed gritty Tijuana using new road to the 4D Toll which turned into Route 1D. The three tolls to Ensndada were 31 pesos each. Passed huge Sacred Heart statue on hill south of Rosarito. Got off at Pulpita to see fishing village but lost it, causing us to be checked by military on way back. Lots of pots being sold here. So continued down 1 until it turned east to La Mision. Found mission ruins and back to 1 where towns and cities spread out a bit. High on cliffs overlooking scenic seashore and fishermen. Got off on shoulder to enjoy view a few times. Found campground at Km94. It had remote cliffside location and inaccessibility for quietness. Had cabins on old converted trailers and dispersed campsites along miles of rocky shore overlooking Salsipuedes Bay. Also had a small sandy beach. Set up on romantic ledge overlooking the bay near the sound of the sea roaring. Went to Ensenada and found parking near city center. Walked the parks with free WiFi. Lots of police around here. Families enjoying the sun in the park, which had a deluxe playground, musical fountain, awesome historic monuments, and the famous gigantic flag. Then walked Calle Mateo finding several fish carts. Shopped at stores here and there, said no to pushy peddlers, until they started closing. Could not find bagged ice anywhere. Finally got some gratis by making a deal with a 711 owner who was letting some melt in an outdoor display. Took roads back to camp but no exit coming from south so we had to overshoot by 6 scenic km and come back. Let kids swim until sunset then went to tent and sat on edge of cliff against firewall listening to waves break and looking at stars, discussing history and grammar. Ana: "What are those white things?" They were stars.

 

Day 29, 8/5: La Bufadora

Playa Saldamando #11, Ensenada, BC. Hi 80, cloudy then sunny. Awakened by fishing boats clanging outside at 4 am. Waves all night. Then woke again and in day and cleaned out van well. Watched fishing boats and dolphins and sea lions from camp. Got another night from the landlord as bigger groups coming in for weekend. Went past Ensenada which had a Carnival ship at port, along 1 into main truck route lined with superstores, an air force base, and university. Beggars and vendors at every light. Eventually made it out of town and around to the peninsula along BC23. Some agriculture along road and vineyards. Occasional villages had taco stands, etc. Stopped at a tamale hut near the lagoon. Then went west up a super scenic road on bluffs over Bahia Todos Santos. Stopped at top near abandoned ranch to eat tamales. Then we approached La Bufadora and paid $2 to park. The path to the park was lined with hundreds of vendors selling everything imaginable from Viagra to Pina Colada and oysters, to t-shirts and Bob Marley paintings. Pushy in some places. This quieted at park border and the thunderous sound of Bufadora took over. Beautiful volcanic notches and islands, one covered with a gull colony. The waves hit Bufadora and the marine geyser exploded delighting everyone. As cruise people left, vendors seemed more desperate. Andrew getting hot in sun so we cooled him off in van with water. Left for town and and visited Wal-Mart for supplies and candy. Left on local side road lined with essential businesses. Stopped on way in to get shrimp tacos where locals were eating from side of road. Walked to downtown and park to blow bubbles, talk to people, and relax a bit. Watched ship leave port. Then walked main streets a bit, going into couple shops. Everyone touching Ana's hair and a few asked for photos with her. Sun going down and so got more tacos and left town, getting Pemex and ice on the way to camp. At camp set up a little fire with Sayner wood and sat on blanket looking at stars, listening to the hard surf. Then to bed, removing the sand Ana left everywhere. Weekend campers all over, but still some open spots. Yesterday we were alone in this world.

Day 30, 8/6: San Pedro Martir

Kiki's Park #26, San Felipe, BC. Hi 106, cloudy in morning then sunny. Woke up in the cool wind of the Pacific and now trying to sleep in the heat of the Sonoran desert, tempered only by a ocean breeze. Ate camp breakfast and broke camp slowly. Began morning in Ensenada getting off at scenic viewpoint. Then changed some money and saw fave taco guy, but he was out of tortillas. Drove around city looking for road to San Felipe. Signage is rough. Got tacos on one corner. Then found Route 3 and headed up into the San Pedro Martir mountains. Temp went up as we went and plants kept changing. Called the "Wine and Cheese Road," but saw more cows than vineyards. Lots of roadside shrines. After a couple hours made it through a second, more stringent military checkpoint and turned down Route 5. Could see sandy desert and sea. 20 mins later stopped at Pemex for ice and cold snacks. It was 106 degrees. Drove into center of San Felipe then got camping near the Morro north of city at Kiki's. Lots of Mexicans and Californians here blasting sad Mexican music and enjoying the beach. Site has a small space, close to neighbors, shelf and roof structure called polopa. Then went to malecon in town for views, fish tacos, and shopping. Went to camp and swam in fun, bath-warm waters of the Sea of Cortez. Then tried to set up tent on polopa but didn't fit. Instead set tent on ground where there is car and foot traffic. Went to beach in dark to feel some cool breeze. People blasting Mexican love songs from all over and screaming at each other, mostly drunk bbqs. It is well past 1:22am, as I write this. I'm very tired. Tomorrow will be hard. But when in Rome... don't complain.
 

Day 31, 8/7: San Luis Border

HoJo, Yuma, AZ. Hi 100, Sunny. Woke uncountable times over night because of noise: loud talking and whining love ballads. It was quiet for about an hour or two, but at sunrise, the music was blasting again. Then the desert sun came out and did its thing. Tried to nap on roof of polopa to little avail. Headphones helped a bit. Broke camp in sweat and went to San Felipe. Spent some time looking for lost stuff while Jess went into shop for curios. Then, tired, drove north through military checkpoints and desert which at some points was just sand dunes and salt flats. Little santas guarded the road in their shrines. Drove around Mexicali (next time, don't) to cross the Rio Colorado into state of Sonora. Sonora was much less well off than Baja and towns were rough. I was able to negotiate gas prices at Pemex with dollars. Finally got to San Luis Rio Colorado, exhausted. Found border after some trouble and kind of cut in line and got thru in 15 mins. Us Customs very nice to us and trouble free. Drove along border wall, noting Mexican garbage fires across the wall, to Yuma for Cracker Barrel and got advice from waitress about northern AZ travels. Tired from last night so we booked a hotel room at 4pm. Went to Wal-Mart for supplies, then to hotel where I could barely move. Kids went to pool as sun fell and heat relaxed. I drifted in and out and then went out to join family at pool. A few people talking to Jess as kids splashed. One was Marine who was going back soon. He had a troubled past and really seemed to want to talk so we did for a long time. Then got Carl Jr's which made me sick later, destroying even more sleep time.

• Photos copyright and all other content copyright 2016-17 by splencner •