Spain: The delights of Madrid 

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One of the many symbols of modern madrid: the Tio Pepe sign above Plaza del Sol (above)
Days 3 & 4: Exploring the one-time capital of the world

Notes and Tips:

From our apartment at 5 Relatores near Tirso de Molina we were in the center of everything. The garbage men came by every single night and gave a free show. In fact, the whole city was a free show with a million side shows. To the east was the museums and the Retiro in the 19th c. Bourbon city. To the west was Plaza Mayor, the Opera, and the Royal Palace and its gardens.

 

Exciting: Plaza del Sol

Most low-key: Sitting at cafes in the plazas

Free fun: People watching in Plaza Mayor

Don't: Get ripped off by the beggars and pickpockets

Most scenic: The parks behind the Palacio Real

Surprises: The affordability and cleanliness

Easy to miss, but don't:  Thyssen Museum

Eat:  Cured ham, chocolaterias, montaditos


Road Diary:

Day 3, 7/9: Walking off jetlag

Written at 5 Calle Relatores, Madrid, Spain. Hot and sunny 88. Woke up with effort and got cash for our apartment's owner and our host and fell in love with city's liveliness on the way to the ATM. Then Andrew and I went to get groceries but first walked to Tirso de Molina where there was a communist/punk flea market. At Plaza Mayor was a completely different scene where we found old men selling ancient coins and stamps in the shady porticos and hallways. We got a mixto and o.j. to strengthen up and got groceries at Lidl, which were very cheap. Back home where we found Ana sick and heaving and listless. Andrew and I went to Plaza del Sol and got her knockoff Gatorade to hydrate her and tried to find umbrella stroller at Corte Inglis, but these seem illegal as they are impossible to find. This plaza was full of street performers and was surrounded by the most modern deaprtment stores. It is kind of like the Times Square of the city. The ghosts of Franco's victims cannot be heard in all the commotion. As evening came, we  took Ana out because she was finally holding liquid. She perked up as we walked and really came alive at Plaza Mayor and near the Palace Real where there was a playground. Soent a beautiful evening near the palace. Walked back to Sol enjoying street opera and a chocolateria on the way. Walked around Sol area and then got helado and came back in dark. Stayed up way too late unable to sleep in heat and city noise for long time. There is no AC in Spain.

 

Day 4, 7/10: Museums and culture

Written at 5 Calle Relatores, Madrid, Spain.  Hot and sunny 95. Decided to hit museums despite the extreme heat. First walked along Prado to the Thyssen Museum stopping at a square with Cervantes statue and the capitol. Then enjoyed Thyssen and its interesting and wide-ranging collection, but kids were predictably antsy. Afterward went to Parque Retiro and enjoyed lush grounds, playground, and lake. The sun and heat was building, so we went to small sandwich place, 101 Montaditos, and enjoyed cheap beers and sandwiches while a life-size Glockenspiel clock went off and captured the attention of everyone. After satisfying our hunger and thirst we headed to Prado for its free day, but there was a line of thousands around the building. Amazing. So we headed toward the Reina Sofia Museum and saw the vertical grass wall at Calixa Forum. Sofia was confusing and full of hard to find exhibits. Eventually we managed to figure it out and simply saw a Picasso exhibit and a few other things. The Picasso exhibit included the famous and inspiring protest against war with his masterpiece Guernica. We walked up Atocha to our neighborhood where we relaxed a bit until the sun went down. We were inspired to walk to busy Plaza Mayor where we just lounged and played with cheap glow in th dark toys go before walking to get some chocolate at San Gines. Soon it was midnight so we came back to watch the garbage men come by. We didn't sleep much again. This whole restless city doesn't sleep much.

 

Arches around Plaza Mayor.Arches around Plaza Mayor. Stamo colectors and coin collectors gathering in the vestibules at Plaza Mayor.Stamo colectors and coin collectors gathering in the vestibules at Plaza Mayor. Plaza Mayor.Plaza Mayor. At Plaza Mayor.At Plaza Mayor. Getting a mixto and orange juice for brunch at a cafe in town.Getting a mixto and orange juice for brunch at a cafe in town. At Tirso de Molino we bumped into a communist flea market. Plenty of free books, but the t-shirts were 20 euros.At Tirso de Molino we bumped into a communist flea market. Plenty of free books, but the t-shirts were 20 euros. Ana is compketeky out of gas and sick as a dog.Ana is compketeky out of gas and sick as a dog. We made it to Plaza del Sol to look for strollers. We made it to Plaza del Sol to look for strollers. The Tio Pepe sign in the daytime as Phillip II watches over the shoppers and loiterers at Plaza del Sol.The Tio Pepe sign in the daytime as Phillip II watches over the shoppers and loiterers at Plaza del Sol. Jessica walking down Calle Relatores. Trying to walk off that jetlag.Jessica walking down Calle Relatores. Trying to walk off that jetlag. Our wedding anniversay has a street in Madrid.Our wedding anniversay has a street in Madrid. She made a full recovery at the sight of a playground. They played with the local kids with "holas" and meows.She made a full recovery at the sight of a playground. They played with the local kids with "holas" and meows. At the king's garden in front of the palace.At the king's garden in front of the palace. So many decapitated Moors in front of the Royal Palace.So many decapitated Moors in front of the Royal Palace. The king looks out on the city from the Palace gardens.The king looks out on the city from the Palace gardens. A man at a Moorish street festival carving chess pieces using his feet.A man at a Moorish street festival carving chess pieces using his feet. What is that? Another crazy moment in Plaza del Sol.What is that? Another crazy moment in Plaza del Sol. Madrid24Madrid24 Sports on TV includes the running of the bulls today. A good break from the constant politics.Sports on TV includes the running of the bulls today. A good break from the constant politics. Going to sleep on the bunk beds in our apartment.Going to sleep on the bunk beds in our apartment. Checking our maps and getting our bearings on the morning of Day 2 in Madrid.Checking our maps and getting our bearings on the morning of Day 2 in Madrid. American kids seeing American art in a Spanish art museum founded by a German heir, the Thyssen Museum.American kids seeing American art in a Spanish art museum founded by a German heir, the Thyssen Museum. There's a long story behind this painting surely.There's a long story behind this painting surely. There's nothing like a Hapsburg chin to get into the Madrid mood. Here is Charles V.There's nothing like a Hapsburg chin to get into the Madrid mood. Here is Charles V. Catherine of Aragon, the Infanta that caused so much trouble for England, doesn't look guilty.Catherine of Aragon, the Infanta that caused so much trouble for England, doesn't look guilty. A little bit of Roy in the Thyssen.A little bit of Roy in the Thyssen. Thinking about our car trip tomorrow as we exit the Thyssen. Toledo and then all points south.Thinking about our car trip tomorrow as we exit the Thyssen. Toledo and then all points south. A line of buildings in Bourbon Madrid.A line of buildings in Bourbon Madrid. Time for some montaditos, olives, beer, and juice.Time for some montaditos, olives, beer, and juice. The wacky clock that stole the lunch hour.The wacky clock that stole the lunch hour. Everywhere we went was an ancient church.Everywhere we went was an ancient church. It is so hot in the Retiro. Seeking relief in t he fountain water.It is so hot in the Retiro. Seeking relief in t he fountain water. The carp-filled pond in the middle of the Retiro, a huge and beautiful gated park east of the city.The carp-filled pond in the middle of the Retiro, a huge and beautiful gated park east of the city. A field house in the Retiro where they have free art exhibits.A field house in the Retiro where they have free art exhibits. A small modern art exhibit in the Retiro.A small modern art exhibit in the Retiro. Beauty and form everywhere. The Spanish style buildings reminded me a bit of New Orleans.Beauty and form everywhere. The Spanish style buildings reminded me a bit of New Orleans. Velasquez presiding over the thousands in line at the Prado Museum.Velasquez presiding over the thousands in line at the Prado Museum. Now that it is cool, we left 5 Calle Relatores. Our window was right above the door.Now that it is cool, we left 5 Calle Relatores. Our window was right above the door. An old state house from the 16th century, on the way to Plaza Mayor.An old state house from the 16th century, on the way to Plaza Mayor. Portrait in Plaza Mayor, where we went to relax and cool off.Portrait in Plaza Mayor, where we went to relax and cool off. We found another chocolateria. This one was in an alley and open all night long.We found another chocolateria. This one was in an alley and open all night long. There's always time for churros.There's always time for churros.  wp lightbox galleryby VisualLightBox.com v6.1
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